Stand on enough ladders and you start to see patterns. I’ve spent decades up there — prying off brittle shingles under an August sun, fastening standing seams during a cold snap, fielding calls the morning after a storm. Homeowners call a roofing contractor with a simple question: should I stick with asphalt shingles, or invest in a metal roof? The right choice depends on climate, budget, style, and how long you plan to stay put. The wrong choice usually comes from chasing a trend without understanding what the roof has to do for your house day after day.
This guide reads the way a site visit unfolds. We’ll weigh how each material handles weather, cost and financing realities, installation details that never make it into brochures, and maintenance over the life of the roof. I’ll pull in numbers where they matter and put hard edges on the trade-offs so you can talk to a roofing company with clear expectations.
What the roof has to survive
Every roof answers to the forces above it. Sunshine cooks it. Wind tries to peel it. Water finds seams. Debris scours it. If you’re searching “roofing near me,” it’s likely because your roof is losing this fight somewhere you can see or somewhere it’s quietly feeding a leak.
Asphalt shingles evolved to strike a balance: affordable, fast to install, reliable in moderate climates. Metal roofs aim for durability: fewer seams, stronger panels, better heat reflection. Neither material is perfect. The right pick lines up with the weather pattern where you live and the shape of your home.
Heat and sun
In hot climates with high UV exposure — think Arizona desert or coastal Florida — asphalt shingles age faster. Granule loss accelerates, tabs curl, sealant strips dry out. A budget 3-tab shingle may look tired in 10 years under relentless sun. Architectural shingles hold up better, but heat still works on them. A lighter shingle color helps, as does a properly vented attic.
Metal reflects more solar radiation, especially with a high-quality, light-colored, “cool roof” finish. I’ve measured attic temperatures drop 10 to 20 degrees after a metal roof upgrade on a poorly vented home. That can trim cooling costs noticeably in peak season. The caveat: the finish matters. A cheap, uncoated galvanized panel will heat up like a skillet.
Wind
Wind vulnerability shows up in two places: at edges and at laps. Shingles rely on adhesive strips and proper nailing to hold together and down. Rated shingles and correct fastener placement make a phenomenal difference; I’ve seen roofs in coastal zones where every shingle was nailed high and two rows peeled off like pages. Meanwhile, a well-installed architectural shingle with six nails per shingle and sealed edges can ride out 110 mph gusts without drama.
Metal systems get their strength from continuous panels, interlocking seams, and mechanical attachment. Standing seam roofs with concealed clips handle uplift forces well, especially when the panel type is engineered for your wind zone. Screw-down metal (exposed fasteners) can perform, but only if the fastener schedule is correct and the substrate is solid. Fastener back-out is a long-term concern where thermal cycling is severe.
Rain and snow
Water only does two things on a roof: it sheds off or it finds a way in. Shingles shed through overlaps; metal sheds through laps and seams. The steeper your roof, the happier both materials are. On low slopes — in the 2:12 to 3:12 range — shingles need careful underlayment detailing, and some manufacturers restrict them. Standing seam metal shines here because it moves water quickly with fewer interruptions, and you can specify double-lock seams with underlayment systems that treat occasional ponding better.
In snow country, shingles hold snow in place, which can be good for controlled melt but bad when ice dams form along cold eaves. Proper attic insulation and ventilation prevent most ice dams, but I’ve replaced plenty of roofs where the roof wasn’t the culprit — the building envelope was. Metal sheds snow rapidly once it releases. That means you need snow retention devices over entries and walkways. The first winter after a new metal install is when homeowners learn this lesson; the sheet avalanche blocks the service door and takes the gutter with it.
Hail and debris
Small hail roughs up shingles by smashing granules loose. It might not leak right away, but UV exposure accelerates aging afterward. Insurers often cover significant hail impacts, which is why shingle roofs in hail-prone regions can turn over every 10 to 15 years. Class 4 impact-rated shingles exist and perform better.
Metal dents. Whether that matters is nuanced. Thicker gauge steel or aluminum resists dimpling better. Ribbed profiles hide minor dents. Painted finishes usually remain intact even when the metal dimples, so the roof continues performing. If you’re particular about aesthetics and live where hail is common, pay for heavier gauge panels and impact-resistant profiles.
What you’re really buying when you pick a roof
You’re not buying squares of material. You’re buying a system and the workmanship to assemble it. That system includes underlayments, flashings, ventilation, and fasteners. The way your roofer handles valleys and penetrations matters more than whether the panel is aluminum or a shingle has a fancy name. Any good roofing contractor will walk you through these items; if your bid just lists “shingles and labor,” ask for specifics.
Underlayment and deck prep
On shingles, I recommend synthetic underlayment for most of the roof, with an ice and water membrane at eaves and valleys in cold climates. Over old plank decks, fill large gaps or overlay with OSB or plywood. Shingles telegraph every irregularity over time.
Metal requires a cleaner, flatter substrate. Some systems allow installation over existing shingles with a vented spacer, but you need to confirm the manufacturer’s requirements and local code. Condensation is a larger concern under metal, especially over conditioned space. A high-temperature underlayment and a plan for ventilation or a proper vapor control layer are not optional.
Flashings and penetrations
Shingles use step flashing and counterflashing at walls and chimneys. I see more leaks from cut corners here than anywhere else. Reusing old wall flashings on a new shingle roof is a false economy. Metal uses custom-bent trims and boots. The work looks clean when it’s done right and stays dry through movement cycles. Cheap pipe boots get brittle in UV; spend the extra on quality silicone or a high-grade EPDM boot and size it correctly.
Fasteners, clips, and movement
Shingles want nails flush, not overdriven, placed in the right zone. On a windy site, bump to six nails per shingle, no shortcuts. Metal expands and contracts. Standing seam clips allow movement. Exposed-fastener metal doesn’t; the fasteners take the stress. That’s why you see screw heads backing out or gaskets drying over a decade. A maintenance plan that includes periodic re-screwing extends life on those systems. If you prefer a low-maintenance path, standing seam with concealed fasteners is the more durable choice.
The lifecycle math: upfront vs long-term
Every homeowner senses the cost trade-off even before the first quote. Asphalt shingles are typically the least expensive up front. Metal costs more to install, often significantly. Whether metal pays back depends on how long you’ll keep the home, your energy costs, insurance incentives, and the value you place on fewer replacements.
On a typical one-story, 2,000-square-foot home with a simple roof, a quality architectural shingle roof might run in the neighborhood of five figures in most markets. Regional labor rates and tear-off complexity can push it either way. A standing seam metal roof could be roughly two to three times that, depending on gauge, finish, complexity, and whether you’re stripping old layers. When a number seems too good to be true on metal, it usually means exposed fasteners, thin panels, or a crew hustling through details.
Now stretch that over time. A well-installed architectural shingle roof lasts 18 to 25 years in temperate regions and as low as 12 to 18 under harsh sun or severe storms. A well-installed standing seam metal roof lasts 40 to 60 years, sometimes more with proper coatings and maintenance. If you plan to own the house for five to eight years, shingles often make financial sense, especially if you’re preparing to sell and need a clean inspection report. If you plan to stay for decades, the second shingle replacement you avoid is where metal often pencils out.
Energy savings add a smaller but real factor. Reflective metal finishes can trim cooling bills by a modest percentage, roof replacement especially on ranch-style homes with big attic volumes and older insulation. In mild climates, the difference is less striking. In hot, humid markets, it’s more noticeable.
Insurance may nudge the choice. Some carriers offer discounts for impact-rated metal roofs or Class 4 shingles. Those discounts vary by state and company. Ask your agent for specifics rather than assuming.
Resale value is the wildcard. A new roof of any type improves marketability. Metal can be a differentiator in neighborhoods where buyers value durability and modern aesthetics. In some traditional neighborhoods, a shingle roof simply matches expectations better. What appraisers will credit depends on comps; a local roofer or real estate agent can speak to trends on your street, not just your city.
Noise, aesthetics, and the way the roof feels to live under
People worry that metal roofs are noisy in the rain. With modern assemblies — solid decking, underlayment, insulation — rain on a metal roof is not the barn drum you picture from movies. On open purlin structures, yes, it’s loud. On houses with sheathing and drywall ceilings, the difference from shingles is minor. What you may hear more with metal is thermal creaking on large expanses as panels expand and contract. Proper clip spacing and anchoring minimize it.
Shingles are the chameleons of residential roofing. They suit Cape Cods, bungalows, and brick traditionals without drawing attention. Architectural shingles in deeper color blends give dimensional depth. You can mimic slate or wood looks, although up close they still read as asphalt.
Metal leans modern, but profiles change the tone. A low-profile standing seam on a farmhouse looks classic; a high, flat seam reads contemporary. Corrugated panels carry an agricultural note that some designers play against stucco or wood facades. Color choice is big here. Matte charcoal and bone white dominate today, while bronze and copper tones age gracefully on Mediterranean or coastal homes.
If you’re in Miami-Dade or another high-wind coastal market, aesthetics must pair with tested assemblies. Approved products and fastening schedules matter for permits and insurance. A roofing company miami homeowners rely on will be familiar with those product approvals and can show you NOAs for both shingles and metal systems that meet local requirements.
Maintenance: the quiet costs over the years
Shingle maintenance revolves around inspection and small repairs. After major wind events, check ridges, hips, and eaves for lifted tabs. Replace missing shingles promptly to protect underlayment. Keep valleys and gutters clear. Trim branches that swipe the roof; abrasion wears off granules. Moss and algae treatments help in shaded, damp areas. Most homeowners handle a lot of this from the ground with binoculars and a phone call to a roofer when needed.
Metal maintenance depends on the system. Exposed-fastener roofs want periodic fastener checks every five to seven years and resealing where gaskets age. Standing seam roofs mostly need cleaning of debris from valleys and behind chimneys, plus a look at any sealants around penetrations. Finish integrity is the long-term story. High-quality PVDF paint systems resist chalking and fading far better than budget polyester paints. If you want your roof to look crisp after twenty summers, pick the better finish up front.
One more note where I see owners surprised: walking on metal is different. You can walk properly on standing seam, but you need to know where to place your feet. Corrugated and ribbed panels dent under point loads. Ask your roofing contractor to show you safe paths during the final walk-through, and share that with anyone servicing rooftop equipment.
Fire, lightning, and other edge cases
Both materials handle fire differently. Asphalt shingles are manufactured in Class A, B, and C ratings; the common architectural shingles on the market are usually Class A with the right underlayment. Metal is non-combustible and effectively Class A as part of a rated assembly. If you live in a wildfire-prone area, ember resistance at roof-to-wall intersections and vent screens is more important than the material alone. Still, metal paired with ember-resistant details is strong protection.
Lightning does not “attract” to metal roofs simply because they’re metal. It seeks the highest, most conductive path to ground. If a lightning protection system makes sense for your home, it should be designed as a whole system. In any case, metal roofing distributes the strike energy safely across a large area and doesn’t ignite like wood shakes might.
Salt air eats unprotected steel. On barrier islands and bayside neighborhoods, I recommend aluminum standing seam or high-grade galvalume with a premium coating. Fasteners must match the panel to avoid galvanic issues. For homes three blocks from the beach, you can sometimes get away with coated steel, but rinse cycles from rain and good detailing matter. If you see red rust within a year on a coastal install, the wrong alloy or a damaged coating is the culprit.
Installation realities that make or break the roof
The best shingle can fail under the wrong nail gun setting. The best metal panel can leak because someone used a single bead of cheap sealant where a hem and clip belong. If you’re evaluating bids from a roofer near me search, the detail questions below separate pros from pretenders.
Ask how they handle valleys. For shingles, I prefer an open metal valley with W-style flashing in heavy rain regions; closed-cut valleys look cleaner but can trap debris. For metal, I want a fully hemmed valley pan with clips, not just panels snipped and laid onto a flat pan.
Ask about starter strips and edge metal. On shingles, a dedicated starter with tar strip and drip edge installed beneath the underlayment at eaves, over at rakes. On metal, a continuous cleat at the eave for standing seam improves wind resistance.
Ask about ventilation. A cool, dry attic protects your roof from the underside. Balanced intake at the soffit and exhaust at the ridge keeps temperatures and moisture in check. If you have bath fans vented into the attic, fix that before the new roof, or you’ll be paying to replace moldy sheathing in a few years despite a perfectly good exterior.
Ask about tear-off vs overlay. A second layer of shingles saves disposal and labor now and shortens the life of both layers later. Weight, heat retention, and hidden deck problems multiply under overlays. I tear off unless there is a compelling, code-compliant reason not to.
Environmental footprint, recycling, and real-world impacts
Asphalt shingles are petroleum-based. Recycling options exist in some regions where shingles are ground and reused in paving, but access varies. Many tear-offs still go to landfills. On the plus side, the energy to manufacture shingles is moderate, and transportation is efficient because they stack densely.
Metal takes more energy to produce, but steel and aluminum are highly recyclable. A metal roof often contains recycled content, and at end-of-life, the panels and trims are nearly 100 percent recyclable. If you care about landfill impact and plan long-term, metal has the edge.
Energy performance is situational. A reflective metal finish reduces cooling load in hot climates. In cold climates, winter solar gain is lower with a reflective roof, but the bigger player is insulation value and air sealing below the roof. Shingles with cool roof granules exist, though colors are more limited. Either way, the attic system matters more than the marketing brochure; a roofing contractor who also understands building science is worth seeking out.
Neighborhood fits and permitting
I’ve seen projects stall because the homeowners association didn’t allow metal, or because the chosen shingle color clashed with a historic district palette. Before you fall in love with a sample board, verify your HOA covenants or municipal guidelines. In coastal Florida, pull product approvals for wind and impact. In snow country, confirm your plan for snow guards and eave protection. The right roofing services provider will navigate these early and bake them into the schedule, so you’re not reselecting materials after a permit review.
Where each material shines
Here’s a tight vantage point from lived jobs where each choice proved right.
- Asphalt shingles shine on complex, cut-up roofs with many valleys and dormers, where custom metal detailing would balloon costs. They suit traditional neighborhoods where matching neighbors matters and for owners who expect to move within a decade. Insurance claims after hail often favor shingle replacement with upgrades to impact-rated products, making the economics smoother. Metal shines on simple, broad planes where the clean lines read beautifully and labor efficiency helps offset material costs. It excels on low slopes at the edge of shingle ratings, in wildfire zones for ember resistance, and in hot climates where cooling savings are prized. For homeowners who hate the idea of another roof in their lifetime, standing seam is a strong “buy once” choice.
When roof repair beats replacement
Not every tired roof needs a full tear-off this season. If hail dimpled your older metal roof but finishes are intact and there’s no leakage, a roof repair may focus on fastener checks, flashing reseals, and cosmetic expectations. If a shingle valley leaks because of a poor cut or undersized metal, a targeted repair can buy several years. The threshold to replace arrives when granule loss is widespread, shingles crack under foot, or leaks show up in multiple areas. On metal, frequent fastener failures, widespread coating failure, or persistent seam leaks signal replacement over patchwork.
One caution: avoid piling new sealant on old sealant as a habit. It’s a short-term crutch that makes the eventual fix messier. A roofer who recommends proper component replacement over caulk is looking after your long-term interest.
Finding the right partner to install it
You can buy the best materials and lose the value with a rushed crew. Look for a roofing company with crew members trained on the specific system you’re considering. Ask for addresses of recent installs you can drive by, not just portfolios. Request the manufacturer’s installation guide and ask the estimator to walk you through how their crew follows it. For metal, confirm whether panels are shop-formed or roll-formed on site and what gauge and finish you’re getting. For shingles, pin down the brand, line, wind rating, nail count, and underlayment type.
Searches like roofer near me or roofing company miami will pull up pages of names. Filter them by licenses, insurance, local references, and clear, itemized proposals. If one bid is half the price of the others, something is missing — scope, quality, or both.
A quick compass for your decision
When I’m on a roof with a client and they’re torn, we answer five questions and the choice usually clarifies.
- How long do you plan to own the home? What does your climate punish roofs with most — sun, wind, snow, or hail? Does your home’s architecture lean traditional or modern? Are there code, HOA, or insurance requirements that steer the choice? How important are energy savings and long maintenance cycles to you?
If you expect to move within eight years, live in a moderate climate, and prefer traditional curb appeal, a quality architectural shingle roof installed by a reputable roofer is a sensible, cost-effective decision. If you’re settled in for the long haul, want lower cooling loads, and your home suits the look, a well-detailed standing seam metal roof is an investment you won’t revisit for decades.
Final thoughts from the ladder
A roof is a shield and a hat. It protects your structure and sets the tone for your home’s face to the street. Asphalt shingles and metal roofing both do those jobs well when installed thoughtfully. The failures I see in the field rarely come from the material. They come from rushed flashing, ignored ventilation, and the temptation to save pennies where it costs dollars later.
Choose a contractor who sweats the details, who talks more about substrate and seams than brand names, and who offers clear options for both roof replacement and repair. Whether you end up with the textured shadow lines of an architectural shingle or the crisp ribs of standing seam, the craft underneath is what keeps your house dry when the wind howls at two in the morning. That, and the wisdom to pick the system that fits your home’s demands instead of the trend of the season.